THE MINUS TRILOGY
by Tim Sellears
"This was no place for a series of studied moves. The angle
was such that arm-strength was a limiting factor. It was equally no
place for a wild flailing of picks - the belay was obviously
non-existent and the penalty clause for careless climbing was much
too severe." 1.
When I first applied to become a member of the Oread my climbing
experience was described by the then president as preposterous,
"How can anyone lead Scottish grade III and second V,6 but
only Moderate climbs on rock ?" Looking back I can appreciate it
was an unusual route into the climbing world, I think basically I
enjoyed the suffering!
In recent years European ice climbing conditions have been
somewhat variable, however there's nothing like a trip to the
continent as preparation for the forthcoming Scottish season.
It's not just the physical aspect of reacquainting yourself with
winter equipment and movement, for me it helps build the positive
mental reserve so often required during Scottish winter
routes. They also amplify enthusiasm, so it wasn't surprising
that no sooner had we returned from Austria that Neil McAllister
from Lincoln Mountaineering Club suggested a trip to the CIC
hut.
Venturing north in winter always seems to be about timing as it
requires conditions, weather and work all to be aligned. As
it turned out only Neil and myself could take advantage of the two
midweek nights (19th & 20th March) at the CIC hut supported by
additional nights at the FRCC hut in Kinlochleven. A couple
of hours after arriving at Waters Cottage our plans were thrown
into question when Neil received two emails; "all FRCC huts are
closed with immediate effect" and "the CIC hut will close on
Sunday". We discuss the growing Coronavirus situation at
length and concluded that it was reasonable to continue with our
plans since the country wasn't yet in lock-down.
Armed with our reserved key for the forestry track we set off for
the Ben Nevis Ski Centre and the drive up to the dam, first thing
though was to pick up the CIC hut key from the Calluna Bunkhouse in
Fort William. Victoria greeted us with a smile and we exchanged
pleasantries about social distancing and staying safe, she said her
elderly father Alan (Kimber) was doing his best to self-isolate, a
big ask for a man - who although now retired - had spent decades
guiding on Ben Nevis.
Agreeable conditions on the North East Buttress
(The Minus face is approximately the second quarter from the
left)
Minus 2 Gully V,5 **** "More haste less
speed"
Having dropped our heavy packs off at the CIC hut it felt great to
be heading out onto the Ben, even the thought of leading my first
Grade V didn't seem to trouble me. Neil's experience shines
through when I realise too late that I've broken trail all the way
to the base of the crag !
I scan
the route description and eagerly head up the first pitch of ice
clipping a midway peg to reach the overhang, which I remember
should be turned on the left. After 15 minutes searching for
a runner and numerous attempts to find a solid axe or crampon
placement I down climb to the peg dejected "sorry mate I'm just not
up to it" ... "it doesn't look too great, hang on a minute" comes
the reply as Neil digs out the guidebook ... "avoid the overhang by
traversing left" ... which it turns out is much more amenable
! This puts me in the main gully which I climb
enthusiastically, placing a couple of screws and clipping another
peg, before entering a narrow runnel with the next belay visible
above. Halfway up this the rope unexpectedly goes tight, I
look around to discover the weather has closed in and no doubt
robbed us of verbal communication.
I start to kick a small ledge to create the belay stance when a
gigantic crack sound detonates high above. Realising there's
no time to place a screw I adjust my position and brace, the
growing rumble a tell-tale sign of what's coming. Within
seconds of the spindrift hitting me the void between my body and
the face is filled and I become buried as it continuously pours
over my head. I recall Natalie's parting comment before I
left "don't die and you'd better come back". As it starts to
subside I realise that my closed eyes feel frozen, I open them to a
wall of white and carefully wriggle to loosen the plug of snow in
front of me.
I bring Neil up and he leads through to belay below the steep ice
pitch, which I opt to climb direct rather than avoid on the left as
suggested in the guidebook. As I set off a couple of ropes
appear from above belonging to two lads from Harrogate
Mountaineering Club. They were none the wiser on the cause of
the blast but were glad to be near the top of the route when it
happened ! (Discussions in the hut later concluded that the
most likely cause was a lightning strike near the summit)
Neil leads the final narrowing chimney to the left and we reach
the summit just as it goes dark. With this in mind we decide
to abseil the route using the in-situ peg belays spaced for 60m
ropes. Above the now dark mass of the north face was a clear
sky packed with thousands of stars illuminating our way back to the
hut. On arrival we were greeting by one of the lads we'd met
abseiling the route "do you two fancy chilli and rice, we've made
far too much ?" ... could life get any better ?
Minus 1 Gully VI,6 **** "Keep calm and
carry on"
Encouraged by our previous day we opt to "go large" with our route
choice, especially as the guidebook suggests "not often in
condition". I obviously learnt something yesterday as,
although I'm again in front of Neil, I'm behind the lads from
Harrogate who are heading for Minus 2 Gully!
As we gear up it becomes clear we're already halfway up the first
pitch and the peg we've clipped to is a runner not the belay.
Neil heads off with the crux in view and in no time at all advises
"it's looking a bit thin, though there are a couple of pegs and
some tat". A flurry of ice ricochets down and I bow my head
to avoid being hit in the face, as I start to look back up I'm
suddenly pulled forward as Neil parts company with the left
wall. The in-situ gear holds and after a quick check all his
limbs are still working he's back on it and through. When I
meet him at the belay I notice there's a nice axe pick shaped hole
in the middle of his new helmet !
Neil nearing the top of the Pitch 2 on Minus 1 Gully
Next is the steep ice pitch which is a fantastic lead with good
ice and great placements all round. Keen to avoid the tight
rope situation of yesterday I belay at the top of this as the angle
eases off, I've also spotted a peg in the next runnel which will
make a good first clip for Neil. He arrives with a big grin
on his face "wow what a brilliant pitch" ... I'm now not so happy
having seen him drop one of my screamer quickdraws!
Arriving at "the meadow" I find Neil at a comfortable belay stance
soaking in the magnificent surroundings. It's a snow bay with
a mixed ramp that the guidebook suggests leads to a choice of
grooves above. I head off and place the all-important first
runner, unfortunately the ice screw goes in about 50mm and hits
rock. After a couple more failed attempts I move to the bay
left wall in a bid to find a rock runner. No joy either so I
return to the centre and take a couple of tentative steps up the
iced rock, my axe and crampon placements feel secure A few
more steps and I try again for a screw placement, the same thing
happens but I decide to leave it in, this is repeated until I reach
the top of the ramp. I look down and wonder why I've left
three useless screws in as runners.
My options are now a steep 20m snow corner above or a smooth
powder covered rock traverse to the right. I dig around for a
rock runner and am strangely calm when one doesn't appear. My
axe and crampon placements still feel positive so I head up the
corner convinced I'll find a runner on the left rock wall. I
don't and at the top of the corner it seems I'm virtually out of
protection options when what looked like a bulge of ice from below
turns out to be 50mm thick. Kicking a small ledge to give
myself a rest I contemplate the predicament; yesterday's comment to
Neil enters my thoughts "sorry mate I'm just not up to it".
Looking down the corner it dawns on me that in reality I've just
soloed the last 35m and after all it is VI,6 ... obviously I am up
to it ! The solution becomes clear. I'm in a stable
position with two good axe placements so I'll belay off these and
get Neil to traverse just below me into the right gully. He
does this and after a few delicate steps on thin ice manages to get
into an icy groove that will take most of a stubby screw, Neil too
is clearly up to it ! (This was a breakthrough pitch for me
and I couldn't agree more when someone commented later that "you'll
have left a piece of your soul on that route")
A couple of rope lengths later we were at the foot of the final
pitch, a snow bay fringed by a wall of rock defining the crest of
North East Buttress. The snow was deep and unconsolidated; I had to
search diligently to find some runner placements beneath the snow
plastered rock. Some small wires were eventually teased into
shallow cracks and provided reassurance before topping out on this
much prized route.
"As I mantle-shelfed carefully onto the rickety arête, we knew we
had snatched one of the glittering prizes" 1.
The broader shoulder of North East Buttress is a short powder
covered rocky arête away but would be time-consuming in these
conditions. I look across and spot the tat at the top of Minus 2
Gully and Neil correctly surmises that we can simply abseil
directly down from our stance into the gully below it; a sling was
draped around a blunt pinnacle and we start our descent under
fading light.
We're not quite so lucky on the food front when we get back to the
hut so opt for a big bag of crisps with mature cheese and biscuits
accompanied by a large single malt ... life really couldn't get any
better !
Minus 3 Gully IV,5 **
"Respect your elders"
All thoughts of heading to the Orion face, with just about
everyone else in the hut, is soon banished at 6.00 the next
morning. Neil thinks it might be the Bowmore 12yr we
celebrated with last night, but in truth yesterday's route had
taken it's toll. To be honest I preferred our backup plan;
though mainly because it gave another couple of hours in bed.
As we were finishing our last cup of tea the door opens and in walk
a couple of old timers; exchanging pleasantries it turns out they
too are going for Minus 3 Gully.
Walking to the start of the route Neil asks if I know who one of
them is, I don't but apparently it's Alan Kimber. I solo up
the first pitch to the cave and belay Neil who leads through up the
crux ice pillar. At the top of the next pitch I catch up with
the party in front so dig around on the right wall and managed to
find a couple of decent runners. Neil cruises up and through
heading for the crest of North East Buttress, we both agree this to
be an excellent choice today.
Five minutes later Alan arrives and starts scratching around next
to me "bloody Ben Nevis rock, it's all so compact". He
declines my offer to clip in and we discuss climbing and the
current situation, "we picked this route to be well within our
limits, mind you at 74 I guess I shouldn't really be out ... you
can see my house from this stance". He looks in great shape
and I am truly in awe of his passion for the outdoors, I could have
stayed chatting all day but I hear Neil shout "Safe". At the
crest we consider our options and decided to abseil 60m towards the
top of Slingsby's Chimney II * where we can see another hefty
abseil sling in place.
Neil abseiling towards the top of Slingsby's Chimney
Walking back down to the CIC hut we knew that during the narrowest
window of opportunity we had achieved a great deal.
We shared one last brew with others recently off the hill,
everyone had found good ice/neve conditions high up, with the Orion
Face receiving a lot of attention. Rucksacks were packed,
burgeoning bin bags were grabbed and we said a hearty farewell to
our fellow climbers. Stepping outside I turned to peer back up at
the mountain, it looked absolutely marvelous in all its winter
glory, we had been blessed.
Back at the FRCC hut it became obvious that the world was now a
different place!
We managed to get to the pub in Kinlochleven just in time to eat,
amazed at how busy it was, we then heard that this was the last
night before all pubs, bars, restaurants etc would be closed to
help curb the spread of the virus. We made good use of the bar
facilities before retiring to our beds. A quick trip to the local
Co-op in the morning to deal with shopping lists submitted by our
wives and we were soon on our way south.
Driving up Glen Coe and across Rannoch Moor I was amazed to see so
many motorhomes and campervans parked up in lay-byes and by the
side of the road plus many more coming towards us. The plea for
social distancing had not quite had the effect required as
this mass exodus from Glasgow showed - a day later a national
lock-down was declared.
Since the trip I've spent quite a bit of time wondering how I
managed to raise my game and why now? Was it the years spent
winter walking learning to survive the Scottish weather; the recent
European ice climbing trips that have improved my technique;
finding a great climbing partner in Neil; being physically in
better shape or maybe some encouragement and wise words from a
friendly ginger Viking (aka Jeff Ingman)? I didn't come up
with an answer but without doubt I was more prepared for the
challenge than ever before.
1. Words by Ken Crocket describing the 1st
accent of Minus 1 Gully in 1974 - extract from Cold Climbs
published 1983.